Jamie Brisick, writer of BECOMING WESTERLY and director of THE LIFE AND DEATH OF WESTERLY MENDINA, is a surf intellectual and a pleasure to talk to. While sitting in my campervan in Southern France, he told me about his wild past as a pro surfer and the losses he had to experience in life. We discuss how surfing, culture and the combination of both is evolving and how riding waves can help you to overcome trauma.
Sit with us in the campervan and listen to this uncut deep talk with a non-alcoholic beer in the hand and the rain pouring against the windows.
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