We visit winemaker Michał Poddany of Winnica Rosenfeld in Podbiel, Mazovia, south-east of Warsaw. Of the 600 vines he planted in 2009, 12 survived two winters. He replanted, made seven vintages only to learn, and sold his first wine in 2023. He talks about his mentor at Marchesi Alfieri in Piedmont, the −18 °C limit for vinifera, the 2024 spring frost, why Pinot Noir is the easy grape in Poland, and why he wants to stay small.
Interview in English.
📍 Podbiel, Mazovia, Poland
In the glass
1. Brut Premiere: 65 % Riesling and 35 % Pinot Noir, partly aged in oak and acacia barrels from Seguin Moreau, 22 months on the lees
2. Riesling 2023: from the Una parcel, the first one planted; 1,700 bottles
Chapters
0:00 Sunshine in Poland after a month of rain
1:00 If not a winemaker: underwater welder
1:51 Inspiration: Marchesi Alfieri in Piedmont
3:14 His personality as a wine: Nerello Mascalese from Etna
4:43 Nature: a bandage on the wound
6:13 Winnica Rosenfeld: 600 vines planted, 12 survived
8:05 Mazovia: harsh winters, wind and −18 °C
9:03 Seven vintages only for himself
11:09 Emerging wine countries and teething troubles
12:45 Tasting: Brut Premiere
14:01 Still wine tells the truth about the vineyard
15:04 Champagne yeast, no turbo yeasts
17:03 Why Pinot Noir is the easy grape in Poland
17:48 Red Pinot Noir from Poland?
19:19 Three labels for a lifetime
21:07 22 months on the lees and tiny bubbles
24:25 20 vintages to understand your vineyard
26:17 Tasting: Riesling, the hardest grape in Poland
26:37 Winter frost, spring frost and 2024
28:38 Every seventh vintage without a harvest
29:55 No bad vintages, only small ones
31:03 2.5 hectares and very low yields
32:10 Riesling 2023 from the Una parcel
33:41 Low pH, high acidity and a lot of patience
34:55 A basket press and a pump gentler than gravity
37:39 Lessons for Polish winemaking
38:04 Five years from now: staying small
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