Before hundreds of climbers can begin their attempt on Everest, somebody has to find a way through the Khumbu Icefall.
That responsibility belongs to the Icefall Doctors, a specialist team of highly experienced Sherpa climbers who establish and maintain the route between Everest Base Camp and Camp One.
They carry ladders into the icefall, bridge enormous crevasses, install fixed ropes and repair sections of the route as the glacier moves beneath them. It is highly skilled work in one of the most unpredictable and dangerous places on Everest.
In this episode, Jake explores:
What the Khumbu Icefall is and why it is constantly moving
Who the Icefall Doctors are
How they find a route through the glacier
What it takes to install ladders across deep crevasses
Why most crossings happen before sunrise
How the route can change overnight
Why Everest climbers must pass through the icefall repeatedly
The important difference between Sherpa people and mountain porters
How the southern route through the icefall was first explored
The difficult decisions faced during the 2026 Everest season
The imbalance between the people celebrated for climbing Everest and those carrying the greatest exposure to its dangers
Almost every climber attempting Everest from the Nepalese side depends on the work of this small team. Without them, the modern Everest climbing season as we know it would barely be possible.
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