Castel di Tusa, Sicily. It is October 24th, 2025. I look at an empty school. This is the third town in Italy I have visited this Autumn: the other two, one in the hills of Tuscany, the other near the border with Switzerland, were similarly devoid of children. They were not devoid of childish objects. Rusted swing-sets. Dusty soft play corners in Catholic churches. Faded toys in second-hand markets. Towns like these are not unusual in Italy, a country with the lowest birth-rate in Europe (1.2 per woman, 2023). Their world is our world: the world of a society going into retirement.
As you cycle through this world, nothing happens. In the countryside, the houses decay, first lone houses, then villages, then small towns. In the city where housing pressure is stronger, dilapidation is more unusual; instead, lone elderly residents – the ‘final generation’ – retreat ever deeper into their overly-large homes, waiting to die. But even in the city, dilapidation is possible. Where property rights are poorly managed, or probate is slow, empty homes can persist in prime real estate. Last time I visited Kamakura in Japan and saw the ruined luxury homes, I asked a friend [...]
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