Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering specialists, his winter training in Arco, boards vs. spray walls, go-to bouldering circuits, tactics for hard flash attempts, catching the moment, and much more.
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Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondra-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:11) – Settling down in Arco
(00:08:47) – Why are the best sport climbers also the best boulderers?
(00:15:23) – Does sport climbing help bouldering?
(00:18:35) – How the 8C flash goal evolved
(00:24:05) – How little Adam warms up
(00:27:26) – Board and spray wall training
(00:33:37) – Adam’s off-the-wall training
(00:36:19) – Stronger than ever
(00:40:21) – Why Adam doesn’t train on a hangboard
(00:43:43) – Edge lifting vs. climbing
(00:48:40) – Interval bouldering
(00:53:04) – How Adam’s indoor bouldering sessions have changed
(00:55:04) – Interval bouldering continued
(00:57:08) – Short routes vs. long boulders
(01:01:21) – Boulder flashing tactics
(01:05:30) – Visualization
(01:08:48) – Choosing flash beta
(01:11:08) – Adam’s weaknesses & strengths
(01:16:34) – Catching the moment
(01:20:20) – Flashing Emotional Landscapes 8C
(01:25:11) – 8C+ flash goal?
(01:29:54) – B.I.G.
(01:36:22) – What’s next for Adam
(01:40:11) – The Smith Rock project
