Ep 37: American Haenyeo — Kylie Genter on Becoming a Jeju Woman Diver | Guest Series

Kylie Genter came to Korea in 2012 knowing nothing except Gangnam Style, chose Korea over Japan because she didn't want to find her own apartment, and somehow ended up as one of the only foreign Haenyeo in Jeju. She dives with the women of Yongnangni Village in the southwest, met her Korean husband at a language exchange that produced seven married couples, and runs a dog hotel as her main income. Sora announces she's been accepted into Haenyeo school, making Kylie her 선배님 (sunbaenim).

Key Takeaways

• How Kylie became Haenyeo: Attended Hansupul Haenyeo school in 2018 after a shamanism class instructor invited her. Her scuba instructor husband then found a village accepting young divers. Yongnangni initially said no to a foreigner, then called back a month later: "Come tomorrow for an interview." The older women didn't understand why a college graduate would do this, but after months of diving, they accepted her.
• Language exchange romance: Kylie met her husband at Seogwipo language exchange in 2018. Seven couples from that group got married. "Nobody had an intention to study."
• Yongnangni Village: Southwest Jeju, six young divers (rare for any village), very welcoming. The 삼촌 (samchon, elder divers) give her 25 onions or huge containers of kimchi randomly. "They have very kind and open hearts."
• Diving schedule: 물때 (Multae) = water cycle, about two weeks. Eight possible diving days per cycle. Only dive October to May (소라/conch season). Summer is sea urchin season but their sea urchins are too small. Must do 바다지킴이 (padajikimi, ocean protection) in summer, yelling at people illegally harvesting.
• Current export crisis: 70% of conch exports to Japan. The boat was sold with no backup, so January had no diving. Diving days shortened until resolved.
• Haenyeo Hangout podcast: Kylie co-hosts with JY (Korean-English translator) to share Haenyeo life in English. "I don't want people to think Haenyeo are these mysterious goddess things. We're all regular people."
• Hardest part of diving: "Everything looks like a rock." Dark ocean, dark stones, dark conch, dark sea urchins. The experienced Haenyeo don't see better; they know from experience where things are.
• Practical Jeju tips from Kylie: Get international driver's license for car rental. Bus routes can have one bus per day. Jeju is bigger than people think; plan ample travel time. Parking in Jeju City is painful.
• Reverse culture shock: Jinju people stared at foreigners constantly. Jeju natives are unfazed. "Yeah, OK. Go this way."

Lightning Round

• Favorite food: 방어회 (Bongeo-hoe) — amberjack/yellowtail sashimi
• Favorite place: Coastal road between Moseulpo and Gosan — best sunsets, most dolphins
• Favorite memory: First time seeing dolphins in the water (scary and exciting), and getting married (exciting, less scary)

Next Steps

• Check out Kylie's podcast: Haenyeo Hangout
• Plan your trip: vamosajeju.com/trip
• Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask