Finland is often reduced to two images: stylish Helsinki in the south and Santa Claus in snowy Lapland. Between them lies a vast country of forested islands, immense lakes, summer cottages, festivals and wood-fired saunas.
This week, Daniel is joined by writer and photographer Tim Bird, who first moved from Britain to Finland in 1982. More than four decades later, Tim is a Finnish citizen and the author of Happy Land: Finding My Inner Finn.
They begin in Helsinki, exploring a capital shaped by its relationship with the sea. Tim explains why the Oodi central library has become a living room for the city, what makes the rock-hewn Temppeliaukio Church so memorable and why every first-time visitor should take the ferry into the Helsinki Archipelago.
His essential recommendation is Suomenlinna, the historic sea fortress spread across a group of connected islands at the entrance to Helsinki’s harbour.
The journey then continues into the landscapes between Helsinki and Lapland. Tim introduces the vast Saimaa lake system, the forested ridge of Koli and the views across Lake Pielinen. He also shares practical advice for exploring rural Finland, including when public transport works and when having a car makes life considerably easier.
There is a proper introduction to Finnish sauna culture too. Daniel discovers what to wear, when nudity is perfectly normal and why an icy swim can become strangely irresistible. Tim also unpacks sisu, Finland’s famously difficult-to-translate quality of resilience, and considers why Finnish happiness may have more to do with trust, security and having enough than constant cheerfulness.
Finally, they discuss lake fish, rye bread, Karelian pies, forest berries, mushrooms and Finland’s formidable enthusiasm for coffee. Tim reveals the common mistakes visitors make when planning a Northern Lights trip, recommends Tove Jansson’s writing beyond the Moomins and chooses an authentic piece of Finnish design to bring home.
In this episode:
- Helsinki’s archipelago, Oodi and Temppeliaukio Church
- Why Suomenlinna is Tim’s essential Helsinki experience
- Saimaa, Koli and Finland’s overlooked Lakeland
- Finnish sauna etiquette and winter swimming
- The meaning of sisu
- Finnish food, coffee and tipping culture
- The truth about visiting Lapland and seeing the Northern Lights
- Tove Jansson beyond the Moomins
- Tim’s favourite season for visiting Finland
Guest: Tim Bird, writer, photographer and author of Happy Land: Finding My Inner Finn.
