Hadrian’s Wall, Part IV: Walking from Birdoswald to Bowness-on-Solway

Emily and Cam wrap up their series on hiking Hadrian’s Wall Path with a discussion of the final 31 miles of the Wall. Follow along as they explore medieval monuments made of wallstone, find themselves treed by some cows, and are regaled with tales of cannibals (human and otherwise!).

Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email:

1. https://havetogawilltravel.com

Read the first post in our series of blog posts on Hadrian’s Wall here:

1. Hiking Hadrian’s Wall, Part I

If you’re interested in hiking the Wall, you’ll find the following resources helpful:

1. Walking Hadrian’s Wall Path, by Mark Richards (Cicerone Press)
2. Hadrian’s Wall Path, by Anthony Burton (National Trails Official Guidebook)
3. Harvey Maps, Map of Hadrian’s Wall Path

Finally, you’ll find the rest of the episodes in this series at the following links:

1. Hadrian’s Wall, Part I: The Romans in Britain and the Imperial Frontier
2. Hadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to Carrawburgh
3. Hadrian’s Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald)

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00:11 - Introduction

1. 00:24 - Episode overview
2. 01:11 - Housekeeping and Summer vacation

02:41 - Birdoswald to Haytongate

1. 03:16 - The character of the trail and the last visible elements of the Wall
2. 05:44 - Honesty Boxes and the Haytongate Hut

06:56 - Lanercost Priory

1. 07:22 - A priory built of wallstone: the history of Lanercost
2. 10:52 - Exploring Lanercost (and our encounter with Max)

12:24 - Haytongate to Carlisle

1. 12:46 - An unpleasant encounter with cows
2. 14:37 - “Where’s the Wall,” or the perils of starting in the west
3. 15:55 - Crosby on Eden, haggis, and black pudding
4. 17:59 - The Wall at the River Eden: Uxelodunum and Milecastle 66

18:27 - Carlisle

1. 18:56 - Carlisle Castle: Luguvalium becomes the old Norman keep
2. 21:31 - Richard III, Mary Queen of Scots, and the Jacobites: Carlisle Castle’s long history
3. 24:52 - Another encounter with Max
4. 27:00 - Carlisle Cathedral (and more plundered wallstone)
5. 28:47 - Carlisle’s Guildhall
6. 30:06 - Misadventures in Carlisle dining

31:46 - Carlisle to Bowness on Solway

1. 32:14 - Burgh by Sands: Aballava, Africans in Roman Britain, and Edward I’s unpleasant bout with dysentery
2. 34:53 - The Tidal Flats: Dykesfield, Drumburgh, and the dangers of high tide!
3. 37:45 - Bowness on Solway and a gathering at Fort Maia: Billy No-Mates and a man obsessed with cannibals!

43:02 - Logistics of the Hike

1. 43:07 - Where to begin? In the west at Bowness, or in the east at Newcastle?
2. 45:38 - Resources for planning: books and maps
3. 47:10 - Lodging, adventure companies, luggage, and the AD 122 bus
4. 50:53 - Food: full English breakfasts and pub fare
5. 53:16 - Tips for the trail: rain, sunburn, and blisters, oh my!

56:56 - Final Thoughts

58:02 - Wrap-up