In this episode, I take you on a self-guided walking tour of Puente de Vallecas: one of Madrid's most fascinating and overlooked working-class neighbourhoods. From its industrial origins and Civil War history to flamenco, Venezuelan street food, and one of the best sunsets in the city, this is a full day out that will make you see Madrid differently.
The difference between Puente de Vallecas and Villa de Vallecas — and why it matters
The neighbourhood's history: from industrial district to shantytown to Civil War battleground
Why the M-30 ring road has shaped (and divided) this part of the city
The story of Robert Capa's house on Calle Peroncel, the controversy over its future, and the wider debate about Civil War memory in Spain
Beautiful 1920s tiled facades on Avenida de Monte Igueldo, including a surviving lechería (milk bar) front
Lunch at Teke Madrid — Venezuelan street food including papitas de yuca and tequeños
Neo-mudéjar brickwork houses hidden throughout the neighbourhood
The elegant Boulevard de Peña Gorbea and its 1920s apartment blocks
The statue of the Abuela Rockera — Vallecas's very own rock grandmother
Bar La Bombonera de Vallecas — a local antifascist institution
Rayo Vallecano — La Liga's working-class club, el orgullo de la clase obrera
Drinks at La Trinchera, a rock and punk live venue inside the Mercado de Numancia
Flamenco at Taberna Flamenca El Cotijo — and why it's the best-value flamenco in Madrid
Dinner at Restaurante Puerto Fonce Badón: huevos rotos con morcilla for two at €14
Watching the sunset from Cerro del Tío Pío (Las Siete Tetas) — and the remarkable story of what those hills are made from
The Batalla Naval de Vallecas — Madrid's giant annual water pistol fight every July
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