Potty Training

Upon bringing home a puppy or rescue dog, two important issues to focus on the first few weeks are building a bond with your new dog and establishing good potty training habits. I always advocate starting your relationship off as a leader who sets the rules of the house. This role as a leader includes teaching your pup where to eliminate. I hope to simplify the whole process in this episode by listing several suggestions to make it the least stressful possible on you and your dog. I also would like to share some memorable stories of clients who sought out my help to potty train their dogs.

Over the years, I have found that people will tolerate ALOT when it comes to potty training. Either they have poor information to begin with, or they are okay with ‘accidents’ in the house. Many times, I start helping clients after potty training has become a problem. Their dog just doesn’t seem to get the concept. They want their dogs to only eliminate outside, but they unknowingly have been sending them mixed signals.

Pet parents have to be willing to change what they have currently been doing. What they have been doing hasn’t worked, so most clients are usually open to trying different tactics. I have had a lot of success with my suggestions and this is what I would like to pass on to you. As I tell my clients, even with rehabbing certain behavioral issues such as jumping or nipping, if plan A doesn’t work, try plan B. If plan B doesn’t work, go to plan C, and so on. This strategy works for potty training too.

Remember, initially, dog training involves teaching the humans how to communicate effectively with their dog first and then training the dogs. Many people successfully potty train their dogs without any assistance. It is what comes naturally and logically to them and they have a cooperative dog. I know this because I ask every client if there are any issues with potty training. I don’t stop there. I ask more questions to find out if that is really true. Sometimes, the client tells me that potty training is not an issue, but then the dog has an accident right in front of me. This can be a touchy subject when this “occasional accident” has been happening for over a year.

Other clients tolerate accidents for so long hoping that the dog will figure it out as they get older. This never has led to success. Whether the dog is large or small, I have been to homes where the dog has had “accidents” in the same places on and off for many months, that turn into years, and then for the rest of the dog’s life (which means the humans have given up and just accepted their dog’s indoor potty habits).

Story #1

One client had two dogs, but was focused on potty training the puppy. When I arrived, the puppy was in a crate. The older dog was loose in the house and greeted me very happily, but was jumping on me. I thought this would be an easy appointment - show the client how to have her dog greet people without jumping and give some suggestions for potty training the puppy. After all, half of the job was done because she was already using the crate! She was just using it for some other purpose unbeknownst to me. The client let the puppy out and put her in a pen she had set up with pee pads. The puppy immediately peed and was excited to meet me. So much for the easy appointment. I gave this client all the tips I have listed below, but she didn’t like how I used the crate for potty training. Needless to say, I never got a call back for further advice!

Exceptions to potty training outdoors

Potty training outdoors is the most desirable place for dogs to eliminate. However, there are exceptions where pee pads or diaper wraps are necessary. For example, pee pads will help if the dog has had surgery and has very limited mobility. There are also dogs that are in their last stage of life and do not have control of their bladder and bowels. There are options for these cases, such as diaper wraps and confining the dog to a certain part of the house that makes clean up easier. However, confining a potty trained older dog after they have had full rein of the house can be very challenging.

I also make an obvious exception with newborn puppies. They cannot control their bowels and urine the first several weeks of their life. Their Mom will lick them to stimulate to go and will ingest what is excreted. Yick! When they are 6-8 weeks, they can be taught to start going outside. Some breeders take it upon themselves to start that process before they are placed in their forever home. This can be a tremendous help, but the pet parent still has to figure out how to do what the breeder did, in their own home. Herein lies the challenge.

Using fake grass outside

I have had clients whose dogs were trained to eliminate on fake grass on a deck right outside of their house or apartment. Sometimes this is necessary because the dog is so small and the temperature is extremely cold for them. I do not envy people who have to potty train their dogs in the winter. We all have experienced how long it can take for their dog to finally eliminate. They get outside and get so distracted that eliminating is the furthest thing on their minds! So, placing the fake grass close to the house and even taking the puppy out on a leash and guiding them to that specific area can work. When the puppy is bigger and the temperature is warmer, you can still take them out on leash in the front or backyard.

The “Poop Arena”

In the winter time, when there is snow on the ground, I recommend shoveling out a “poop arena”. Sometimes the snow can be deeper than the height of the dog. We did this for our Corgi.

Story #2

Another example of how fake grass can help potty train a puppy is one of my clients had to place fake grass on her balcony because she lived in a high rise apartment. The puppy was way too big to carry and it took too long to walk him down the long hallway and get in the elevator without having an accident. As soon as the puppy could hold it longer, she was able to walk him to the elevator to get to the place where there was an area for dogs to eliminate.

Story #3

Another client adopted a Shih Tzu named Princess who spent her first 3 years in a crate. She never experienced any other daily life but the inside of a crate. This meant she defecated, urinated, and ate in one that was most likely stacked on top of others. Many dogs were rescued from this particular hoarding situation, where they were living in substandard conditions. Knowing this, Princess’ pet parent vowed to never put her in a crate again.

After talking to the vet, Princess’ pet parent decided to potty train her outside instead of using pee pads indoors. She was small enough to carry downstairs and in the elevator to help speed up that process. She had gastrointestinal issues throughout her life due to the poor diet from the neglect and abuse she experienced. This made potty training challenging at times. It was necessary to learn her bowel habits to avoid accidents. The great news is that Princess was able to be successfully potty trained outdoors even while living on the 30th floor of an apartment building!

Princess passed away this year but taught everyone who met her that dogs can overcome the most horrendous conditions and have a fulfilled life. She was very fortunate to find her forever pet parent.

Potty Training My Dog Ebi

I like to recount the story of potty training my Leonberger, Ebi. I knew she was going to be a big dog and there was no way I was going to put up with huge puddles of urine or big piles of poop! So, express potty training was a necessity! It was 8 years ago, but from what I remember, I bet she had less than 10 accidents until the day I considered her fully potty trained.

My husband and I blocked off our house with gates so that Ebi only had access to the front hallway and kitchen. We had a chair in the hallway that one of us would sit on while she was awake and playing. We called it poop patrol. We took turns. If neither of us could watch her, we would put her in her crate. In the beginning, sometimes we would take her outside every 10 minutes. We started to recognize the signs that she had to go.

Signs That Your Puppy Has to Go:

* abruptly stopping whatever they are doing and start wandering away

* sniffing in a particular area

* twirling around and squatting

* restlessness/hyper energy - not able to focus on anything or settle down

* going close to where they are let out

* barking and/or whining by the door

Using a Pen With Open Floor Plans

Potty training can be very challenging with houses that have an open kitchen living room, dining room and family room. The distance between two walls is too great to set up gates. For this type of layout, setting up a pen can provide the same purpose as a crate. This can be more challenging due to the amount of ample space available in these pens. There is enough space for them to eliminate in one spot and lay down in another spot. It is a safe place to leave the dog unattended for brief periods of time. Your dog also has to be trained to respect the boundaries by not jumping out or sliding it across the floor.

Pens are also great to place outside for yards without fences. Two pens can be attached together to give the dog more room. It can also be a safe place where the pet parent can scan the area for nuts, animal poop, and other things that puppies shouldn’t eat.

Story #4

I remember a client who lived in a house with an open floor plan and got a pen for her puppy. She did not like the concept of crates. The pen worked until the puppy figured out how to climb and jump over the pen. He proceeded to go to his favorite spot by the door to eliminate. Then, she tried to put a top on the pen. He figured out how to get out of that. I told her the only option was the crate which she did not want to do, but it did the trick.

Be Proactive

I find some people expect to get signs from the dog that they have to go out. They never get the signs and the dog has accidents. It is best to be proactive and take the dog out often, instead of waiting for a sign.

Potty Bells

Dogs can be trained to use potty bells. I was going to train Ebi on potty bells until she told us a different way by sitting by the door. Potty bells work by training the dog to touch the bells with their nose or paw to indicate they need to eliminate. They are recommended to be hung beside the door used to go outside. The pet parent has to be very close by and immediately take the dog outside. When the dog eliminates, they verbally are praised and get a treat within 2 seconds.

I find the majority of the clients I have helped, sought out good information, but interpreted it incorrectly, causing confusion in the dog. The main issue that gets misinterpreted is how to use the crate for potty training. I have helped plenty of clients successfully potty train a dog without a crate, but there has to be a confined space that acts like a crate and/or a way for the dog to alert you that he has to eliminate. Otherwise, frequent trips outside combined with a watchful eye are an absolute must.

Using a Crate for Potty Training

Let’s talk about using the crate for potty training. First of all, I am a big proponent of crates. They provide a comfortable, safe space for the dog and can prevent separation anxiety. I recommend closing and locking the crate door to ensure the dog gets a decent nap and doesn’t feel they have to follow you everywhere you go in the house. If used during the day while you are home, crates with the door closed and locked can guarantee the dog gets in good naps for the day. Some people use them and leave the door open so the dog can come and go as they please. This is what I do now with my 8 year old dog, but while I was training her, I always locked the door.

Using the crate is also an obedience skill from a leadership point of view. If I want my dog to go to her crate, I want to be able to put her there for whatever reason. I still will use the crate if we have maintenance men to the house or if there are a lot of people with food around. She is a big, hairy dog and no one appreciates fur on their food! Most recently, the crate came in very handy when Ebi got skunked. We moved the crate outside and kept her in there until I felt she didn’t smell that much anymore. Then, we brought it back in that evening.

In my opinion, having a puppy or bringing home a rescue dog is stressful enough without having to deal with potty training. I’m all for the least amount of stress possible while I go about my day. Crates can help simplify your schedule and can be used almost like a babysitter. If you can’t keep your eyes on your dog, the crate is the answer. When you are training a puppy and need to get a shower in, the crate is the best and safest place for them.

The biggest reason why crates work for potty training is that typically, dogs do not like to eliminate where they sleep or eat. The crate needs to be the size of the dog where they can only have room to lay down and turn around. Otherwise, they will pee or poop in one corner and lay in the other corner. Once the puppy/dog figures that out, it makes it that much more challenging to use the crate for potty training, even with the best product on the market.

How to Train a Dog to Get Acclimated to a Crate

Anytime you introduce anything new to a dog, you want to get to know it through their sense of smell. Have the dog approach the crate and encourage them to be curious about it and to want to sniff it all over. Open and close the door so they can get used to the sound it makes. If any step causes some fear, just do it again very gently. Also, if at any time your dog whines or barks, be aware of how long they can be in there without vocalizing and just repeat that length of time many times until they can be quiet. Your dog may be sensitive and need some extra encouragement. If at any point your dog just refuses, end the session with something positive they can do near the crate and try later.

The dog must be calm and quiet while in the crate!

Once your dog seems to behave confidently around the crate, throw some treats inside. They have to get used to the sound of their claws on the plastic tray insert. Lure them inside with a treat by their nose until all 4 paws are on the tray. As soon as all 4 paws are on the tray, verbally praise them and give them a treat. Invite them back out with lots of enthusiasm. I highly advise to NOT put any beds, pillows, or soft toys in there. Dogs love to pee on things, especially soft beds. If they have an accident, it’s one more thing you have to wash and get the urine smell out.

Once you have successfully done this at least 5 times in a row, lure them in and lock the door. Count to 3 or 5 seconds and invite them back out. With every successful step, repeat that step at least 5-10 times. Continue this pattern and leave them inside for 7-10 seconds. Try not to stare at them the whole time. Sometimes looking at them causes them to get anxious or excited and can interrupt your training session. Repeat this process until they can stay inside for about 5 minutes. You can intermittently feed them treats while they are in there. This keeps the experience positive.

The last stage is that you lure the dog in the crate, give them their reward, lock the door, and leave the room for about 5 seconds. Gradually increase the duration by seconds, not minutes, until they can be in their crate without vocalizing. This is when I recommend giving them a kong filled with almond butter and/or pumpkin. This keeps them busy licking and not noticing how long they are in there. Never guess how long they can stay in there. Always time the session.

Story #5

One client’s dog had a severe aversion to his crate. Something traumatic must have happened to the dog before they brought him home. This family was so kind and I truly believed them when they told me that they did nothing negative to cause this aversion. They wanted to do the right thing, bought the right size crate, but never could get the dog to go in it. By the time I came to help them, I had them show me how the dog reacted. It was probably one of the most severe reactions I have ever seen. There was no way I was going to force this issue. Besides, they had the perfect kitchen to block the dog in and he was very comfortable being there. He actually had an alert stance to tell the family he needed to go out, so that case was a success without the crate.

What to Do When Your Dog Doesn’t Eliminate When You Take Them Out

A common issue with every puppy or dog is that when you take them out, they don’t go. Once they come back in, they go. The way to rectify this is to put them in their crate as soon as you reenter the house and take them out again in about 5 minutes. Keep repeating this cycle until the dog finally eliminates. This is exactly what crate training means. You are using the crate as a place the dog can be without them eliminating. They don’t want to eliminate in the place where they sleep or eat. That being said, I also recommend using the crate for napping and spending the night. I even go as far as saying that it is best to have the crate in your room, especially when first bringing home your pup. A crate in your bedroom for night time and for keeping them safe while you can’t keep an eye on them and then one downstairs is optimal.

If you are told that someone potty trained their puppy in a week, I would have to question that. Sure the puppy may have picked up rather quickly that outside is where it’s at, but they still have to be monitored for many months. When my dog Ebi was a puppy, within days of bringing her home, she alerted me by going to the back door and sitting facing me. She still does this today. The only difference is when she sits by the door, her big body slams up against the door and makes a big sound too!

Accidents happen. They are inevitable.

Below is a list of tips to make potty training the quickest possible and the least stressful.

* Take the puppy out often - every 10-15 minutes (no more than 30 minutes) while they are awake or as soon as they exhibit a sign listed above.

* As soon as the puppy wakes up from a nap, take them out right away.

* Take the puppy out within a half hour of eating/drinking/playing.

* Wake the puppy up in the middle of the night - 3-4 hours after going to bed. Then after a month or so, lengthen that duration by a half hour or hour until they can hold it through the night.

* Feed the puppy by 5:00pm and lift up the water after 7:00pm or at least 4-5 hours before you go to bed.

* Keep a log of what time the dog last eliminated. This is especially useful in family situations.

* Get the most effective cleaner specifically for dogs which address pee and poop accidents, like Natures Miracle. Bleach and carpet cleaner do not remove the urine enzymes or all of the poop smell.

* Cordon off your home with gates to restrict access to the whole house. The more access the puppy/dog has, the more places they will have accidents. Your house should not be their toilet!

* Put your dog back in the crate if he doesn’t eliminate outside. Wait a couple of minutes and try again. Repeat this until the dog eliminates and praise them.

* NEVER push your dog’s nose into the pee or poop to show them that it’s wrong. This does not work.

* ALWAYS stomp your feet or clap your hands if you catch them in the middle of eliminating. This usually stops them mid-stream. Then, immediately whisk them outside and praise them when they go.

* Reward your puppy/dog within 2 seconds of finishing peeing or pooping by verbally praising and/or treats.

* If no one can keep an eye on your dog, put them in their crate.

* Always take the dog out from the same door.

* Take the dog out on a leash - after they eliminate, they can be rewarded with free time off leash.

Problems with potty training can cause great discord amongst family members. Within a family, there can be some who are fine with potty pads and others who think outside is the only place for the dog to eliminate. This causes a lot of tension within the family.

When I volunteered at Cuyahoga County Animal Shelter over 15 years ago, I was told that the number one reason dogs were given up to the shelter was due to unsuccessful potty training. So, it can be a make or break issue whether you keep the dog or not. Most of the time, it’s not the dog’s fault. It’s the humans not doing what it takes to successfully train the dog. It’s really not that difficult. I will admit there are more challenging cases than most, but all in all, it’s pretty simple, just like dogs are.

Please leave me a comment to let me know how potty training went for you. If you need any help, please call me at the number below. You can also email me at: canineconcierge@att.net.

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