Episode Description:
Rafe Totengco has been designing bags for almost thirty years. He started in Manila at eighteen — no formal training, just ambition and a tailor who could execute his sketches. He came to New York in 1989, worked days, studied at FIT at night, and in 1997 debuted his first collection at Bergdorf Goodman. He's been building Rafe New York ever since.
He's turned down every offer to sell the brand. He spent five years as creative director running four labels at Nine West, walked away when private equity moved in, and went back to doing things his way. Last year, his Asura Minaudière — a sculptural evening clutch made from mother-of-pearl shell inlay, designed nearly a decade ago — won the Accessories Council Design Excellence Award and is headed for The Devil Wears Prada 2.
In this conversation, Rafe talks about what it actually costs to stay independent, how his Filipino heritage lives inside everything he makes, and why being open — to new ideas, new influences, new music he can barely sing along to — is the only creative philosophy that's kept him going. He also talks about chosen family, queer aging, and what it meant to grow up with no role models who looked like him.
This is a conversation about building something that lasts — and staying true to it when every incentive says to sell.
What We Talk About:
Rafe Totengco is the founder and creative director of Rafe New York, an accessories brand he launched at Bergdorf Goodman in 1997 and has built independently for nearly three decades. A member of the CFDA, he served as creative director at Nine West before returning to his own label full time. His work is handcrafted by artisans in the Philippines, India, and Madagascar. His Asura Minaudière won the Accessories Council Design Excellence Award and is appearing in The Devil Wears Prada 2. He lives in New York with his husband.
Connect with Rafe: Website: rafe.com | Instagram: @rafenewyork | Pinterest: Rafe New York
Resources Mentioned:
Rafe New York (brand)
Asura Minaudière (Accessories Council Design Excellence Award winner)
The Devil Wears Prada 2 (film)
Accessories Council
CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America)
Nine West
FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology)
Parsons School of Design
SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design)
Josie Natori (designer/CFDA member)
REM Koolhaas (architect)
Frank Gehry (architect)
The High Line, New York City
Connect With Us: Website: https://www.thenewmaturity.com/ | Instagram: @thenewmaturity | Newsletter: https://thenewmaturity.substack.com/ | Email: heath@thenewmaturity.com
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