Before Telly Justice became a Food & Wine Best New Chef and co-owner of HAGS, she played drums in a self-described "terrible grunge band" called Skaz at all-ages shows where her parents bought everyone pizza. She talks about stumbling into restaurant work through a crew of "punks, weirdos, and queer people," the radical mayonnaise that transformed her cooking, and building a restaurant where every diner receives a "distillate of pure care."

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