Kyle Bertin thinks the industry has the returns conversation backwards. His company, Two Boxes, builds software for the section of the fulfillment center nobody wants to walk into, and his argument is that returns are an inventory management problem. He calls it the least optimized inventory pool most merchants own.
The math he runs uses a hypothetical $100 million apparel brand. A 25% return rate sends $25 million of GMV back through the door, and at the 50% restock rate he sees in unoptimized operations, half of that never makes it back to full-price sale. Bertin says 80% restock is achievable across his customer base, which frees roughly $7.5 million of inventory and, after sell-through and gross margin, puts the net income impact between $3 and $5 million. For context on what that means against a real P&L, public apparel brands have spent the past several quarters working to hold net margins in the low double digits.
He also tells the story of a footwear CFO who looked at a 35% return rate a few years ago and said, directly, that he did not care. At the time the reasoning held up. He was buying at under 20% COGS out of Vietnam, bringing it in duty-free under the Section 321 de minimis exemption, financing inventory in transit at close to zero interest, and answering to investors who rewarded growth over profitability. Bertin takes each of those conditions apart in turn, which is his explanation for why the inbound started as a trickle in 2023 and hasn't slowed.
We also get into what has to change on a 3PL warehouse floor, where AI is doing real work in returns processing and where it isn't, the new Radial partnership, and Bertin's claim that only about 5% of returned items are genuinely unsalvageable.
This Watson Weekly interview is sponsored by Radial.
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