This week is a truly madcap sniffathon HOPEFULLY encompassing [*takes a
deep breath*] wild seascapes, fragrant ghosts and a notorious rake; a spicy
summer scent to set your senses tingling; a fruity treat based on a perfumer’s
favourite breakfast; a splendiferous peacock strutting its scented stuff; a stunning
sueded rose; perfumes pulled straight from the vegetable patch; Harrods
exclusives to swoon over; a seriously affordable new niche house; a mesmerising
myrrh, and Alice du Parcq’s book pre-order discount code…
AND if all that wasn’t enough, we’re also answering a #listenerprescription for a
jasmine fragrance to remind her of a dance while wearing jasmine garlands.
Phew!
Can we possibly fit it all in without going off-topic? Listen along and find out!
BeauFort London continued: Following on from last week’s fascinating interview
with founder Leo Crabtree, Nicola tries a trio of intriguing scents:
Cape Wrath
‘Cape Wrath Eau De Parfum. Named after the rugged area of coastline on the
most North Westerly tip of Britain, Cape Wrath pulls inspiration from this wild,
treacherous seascape. The remote landmark - named after the old Norse word
for ‘turning point’ has for centuries been used by sailors to safely navigate the
coast of Britain, yet its treacherous waters have claimed countless vessels.
Character: Powerful; wild; windswept
THE WEARING EXPERIENCE
Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Elemi, Galbanum, Angelica Root
Opens with a blast of
bracing ocean air.
Heart Notes: Frankincense, Mastic, Geranium
Resinous smoke and geranium
add both warmth and austerity.
Base Notes: Ambergris, Vetiver, Ambrette, Seaweed, Oakmoss
Absolute
Mossy oceanic base which powerfully lingers.
Perfumer: Euan McCall
Absent Presence
‘‘O absent presence, Stella is not here’
The fifth and final instalment of the Revenants collection draws inspiration from
the Elizabethan poet Sir Philip Sidney. In his Sonnet sequence ‘Astrophel and
Stella’ Sidney develops and captures the essence of a haunting… the presence
of one that is always felt but never seen.
‘Now I, wit-beaten long by hardest fate,
So dull am, that I cannot look into
The ground of this fierce love and lovely hate,
Then some good body tell me how I do,
Whose presence absence, absent presence is;
Blesst in my curse, and cursed in my bliss.’
Comprising the highest level of natural ingredients of any BeauFort fragrance,
Absent Presence explores its themes with typically ‘overdosed’ concentrations of
violet leaf absolute, vetiver bourbon oil, smoky leather and black pepper oil. As
with all the Revenants family, Absent Presence is presented as 30% Eau De
Parfum.
Character: Dark; enveloping; waves.
THE WEARING EXPERIENCE
Top Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Pepper
Fresh, green, and fleeting felt but out
of reach.
Heart Notes: Jasmine, Violet
Jasmine and violet bloom with intensity.
Base Notes: Leather, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber, Cedarwood
Warm leather,
woods, amber and musk linger like a ghost on the skin, the violet heart returning
in waves.
Perfumer: Julie Dunkley.’
Rake & Ruin
‘Rake & Ruin Eau De Parfum is inspired by the works of satirist William Hogarth,
this fragrance summons his characters from a gin soaked 18th century London.
This debauched Eau De Parfum incorporates the botanical ingredients of gin;
dark woods, civet, musks and amber bringing to life 'all manner of Vice and
Wickedness.’
THE WEARING EXPERIENCE
Top Notes: Angelica, Liquorice, Juniper, Coriander, Szechuan Pepper, Pink
Pepper, Orange, Lemon
Opens with a sharp, gin-like freshness, spiced and
effervescent.
Heart Notes: Cypress, Pine Needles, Castoreum, Labdanum, Cade Oil, Costus,
Violet Orris
Bowing to a heart of smoky woods, animalic tones and powdered
florals.
Base Notes: Dark Woods, Ambrarome, Sandalwood, Musk
Dark woods, musk
and animalic. Ambrarome complete the seductive yet slightly sinister finish.’
Alice du Parcq’s book: The Philosophy of Perfume
Pre-order at Waterstones for £10 (25% off with code SUMMER26)
https://tinyurl.com/AliceWaterstones
‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all
about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and
how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and
fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras
and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In the
book, you'll meet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative
process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional
voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the
literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is
impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for perfume
and find The One(s!).
It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for
fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with
interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their
next scent shopping safari.’
AKRO Heat
‘HEAT is our addictive chili fragrance.
Chili is not just a spice. It is a rush. A burn you think you can handle. The first
time you smell it, it hits, it wakes you up. Then it warms you. Then you want it
again.
The best chili doesn’t just flavour. It ignites. It makes your skin tingle. Your
temperature rise. Your pulse quicken. Your senses sharpen.
HEAT is that moment when warmth turns into craving. When your body asks for
more. A vibrant indulgence. A dopamine shot you keep coming back to.
HEAT is a scent that sets you on fire and makes you love the burn.
TOP: CORIANDER SEED, LEMON, RED CHILI
MIDDLE: CARDAMOM, GINGER, JUNIPER
BASE: CEDARWOOD, AMBROX, MUSK.’
Jeroboam Oud Morning
By Vanina Muracciole
‘Oud Morning from Jeroboam is the perfect balance of brightness and depth.
Opening with an unexpected burst of blueberry, saffron and resins, the
composition moves into a heart of Indian oud, softened with leather and aged
woods. Sandalwood, ambroxan and white musk anchor it into a smooth, sensual
base, finishing the creation on an intimate note.
Top Notes: Blueberry, Gurjum Balsam, Saffron
Middle Notes: Indian Oudh, Leather, Dry Wood, Violet
Base Notes: Sugar, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, White Musks.’
Alexandre J Royal Peacock (Harrods Exclusive)
‘At the turn of the 20th century, Art Nouveau reshaped the decorative arts.
Mucha, Gallé, Tiffany, Lalique, all drew on nature to invent a new grammar of
curves, stylised plants and extraordinary birds. Among them,
the peacock reigned supreme: its iridescent eyes and regal bearing embodied
the movement's core belief in beauty for beauty's sake.
The opening evokes an Italian espresso served with Viennese pastry. Roasted
coffee dialogues with hazelnut in a frankly gourmand accord, before maple
syrup brings its unmistakable amber roundness, sweet without cloying, almost
woody. Caramel amplifies the indulgence, while violet casts a powdery floral veil
that keeps the composition from tipping into excess. The vanilla-almond base
settles into a lasting, addictive warmth.’
Ormonde Jayne Suede Silhouette
‘Bathed in crimson and violet, Suede Silhouette reflects the warmth of saffron,
the richness of raspberry and the quiet confidence of suede. Exclusively at
Selfridges.’
Jo Malone London Veggies collection:
Celine Roux says: ‘We just loved that people, even in the middle of cities like
London, can grow their own carrots and herbs – the fact that everyone wants to
have a grasp on nature from wherever they are. This [collection] takes that idea
of something homegrown and unmanicured but gives it a fresh take’
Velvety Butternut:
‘The path ahead is smooth, just like a velvety butternut playfully plucked from the
veggie patch. Notes of smooth butternut, warm tonka bean and patchouli create
a woody gourmand scent.
Top - Ginger
Spicy and fresh with a zingy lemon quality, it opens the fragrance with lively
brightness.
Heart - Butternut
Smooth and nutty, notes of butternut imbues the fragrance with a delicious
warmth and creaminess.
Base - Patchouli
Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the
longevity of the fragrance.’
Carrot Blossom:
‘Life is sweet, just like carrot blossom gloriously gathered from the veggie patch.
Notes of subtly sweet carrot, orange flower and white musk create a fresh floral
scent.
Top - Fennel
Herbaceous with hints of aniseed, it adds a dewy sweetness to the top notes.
Heart - Carrot Blossom
Lightly floral and sweet, with an earthy accent, complementing the powdery notes
of orris.
Base - Patchouli
Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the
longevity of the fragrance.’
Suzy’s favourite: Scarlet Beetroot
‘Colour is all around, just like a scarlet beetroot splendidly spied in the veggie
patch. Notes of beetroot, vibrant blackcurrant and a dash of...
