Le Négus de Nevers: The Sweet Born From a Press Error in 1902 | Food Tour de France
Le Négus de Nevers — the soft chocolate-scented caramel enclosed in a hard caramel shell that has been made in Nevers since 1902 — is one of the most charming and most improbable origin stories in the whole of French confectionery. Today's Food Tour de France episode finishes in Nevers — the capital of the Nièvre department, a handsome city on the Loire — and tells the full story of a sweet born from a press error. In July 1902 a celebrated Ethiopian military leader called Ras Mekonnen visited France. The French press covered the visit enthusiastically — and some of those journalists, in their excitement, got the title wrong. They called him the negus — the title of the sovereign of Ethiopia, held at the time by Menelik II, who was Mekonnen's cousin and who never came to France at all. A confectionery in Nevers called Maison Grelier read the papers, created a sweet in honour of the visit and named it after the mistaken title. The négus. And the sweet has been made in Nevers under that name for over a hundred and twenty years.
The episode covers the full story of the négus — from the Maison Grelier tradition of creating a new sweet named after a significant event each year, through the commercial success that caused the confectionery to rename itself Au Négus, to the four generations of the Hiriart family who ran it from 1909 until 2013 when it was sold to the Ménard chocolate company. We cover what the négus actually is — a soft chocolate-scented caramel inside a shell of hard caramel, presented in a round iron tin with golden writing on a green background — and its coffee-scented alter ego the Abyssin, named for Abyssinia, the historical name for Ethiopia, which gives the whole naming structure of the Maison Au Négus range a gentle century-old nod to the East African connection that inspired the original creation. And we sit the négus alongside the great tradition of French regional confections — the bouchon bordelais, the Vichy pastille, the nougatine de Nevers — that are specific to a place and synonymous with it.
The Food Tour de France is a daily series running alongside the 2026 Tour de France on Fabulously Delicious — one episode for every stage start and finish. The négus episode connects directly to tomorrow's nougatine de Nevers episode — Nevers gets two consecutive episodes in this series, making it the most confectionery-rich city in the entire Food Tour de France. Two sweets. Two extraordinary stories. One city on the Loire. Search Fabulously Delicious on Spotify and Apple Podcasts for the full series.
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