#41 Maximum Finger Strength

» Finger strength is one of the most important aspects in climbing, and one of the most discussed topics with no lack of contradictory advice and opinions.

» In this episode we'll outline an approach to finger strength—mainly through no-hangs, which for me has unlocked one-arm hangs on 12mm edges and hard sends up to 8C difficulty.

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– TIME-STAMPS –
(00:00) – Intro
(01:08) – Overview
(02:03) – Terminology
(02:58) – The Yearly Approach
(06:26) – Hangs vs Lifts
(09:36) – Max No-hang Training
(09:57) – No-Hang Form
(14:04) – Type of Lifting Device
(14:48) – Lifts vs Holds
(16:45) – Reps/Sets
(17:45) – Session per Week
(19:22) – Grip Positions
(22:52) – Lazy Pinky
(26:31) – Optimization


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