Why are vintage Mary Maxim sweaters so good? What happens when gorpcore actually goes camping? Did American fashion miss its America 250 moment? Sol and Michael are back on Pair of Kings Podcast to talk knitwear, outdoor style and American identity.
After a month apart, the boys reunite for a conversation about the clothes we collect, the places we wear them and the culture that makes us want them in the first place. From an Idaho vintage-store discovery to the 2016 fashion revival, this September 2026 episode connects menswear, archive fashion, craft, film and the great outdoors.
Why do Mary Maxim sweaters deserve more attention?
Pair of Kings Podcast explains the appeal of vintage Mary Maxim knitwear through its graphic knitting patterns, animal motifs and the individuality of sweaters knitted at home. Sol shares the cardigan his friend Bailey identifies as the No. 415 Totem Pole pattern, the wolf-head design he keeps coming back to, and why collars and proportions can make similar sweaters wear completely differently. The discussion takes in Cowichan-style cardigans, Undercover and Yohji Yamamoto knitwear, an Ultraman sweater grail, and the work behind a custom Newcastle football-kit sweater. Is learning to knit the answer to finding your perfect sweater? And is the "sweater curse" really about knitting, or about how much effort you're willing to put into a relationship?
What does gorpcore look like beyond the city?
Sol recounts hiking from Pettit Lake to Redfish Lake in Idaho's Sawtooth Mountains, where thunderstorms, overpacking and increasingly stripped-back camping setups put outdoor style into perspective. The pair talk tents versus tarp shelters, the people you meet farther along the trail, and how experience changes what hikers carry. This is gorpcore through an actual camping trip: outdoor clothing, backpacking culture and the difference between dressing for a lifestyle and living it. Sol also thanks The North Face for providing gear for the trip.
Did fashion drop the ball on America's 250th anniversary?
Sol and Michael debate whether America 250 was a missed opportunity for American fashion, or whether its political associations made participation complicated. Ralph Lauren, Levi's and L.L.Bean become starting points for a bigger conversation about Americana, heritage brands, national identity and the relationship between fashion and politics. Can a brand sell a vision of America without getting pulled into the politics of being American? And are new ideas in menswear slowing down, or are we just looking in the wrong places?
The conversation continues with Logjam Vintage, formerly Beankeepers, vintage L.L.Bean and a couple restoring Moose Peak Lighthouse on Mistake Island. Add old Champion T-shirts, heavy Filson wool trousers and the pleasure of finding clothes with a life before yours. Heritage menswear gets a lot more interesting when there's an actual story attached.
Which movies make you want to change your wardrobe?
The Lighthouse means wool coats, chunky knits and workwear; The Lost Boys means leather, a peacoat and Kiefer Sutherland; No Country for Old Men means Western shirts, worn-in jeans and cowboy boots. The boys also discuss Interview with the Vampire, Robert Pattinson in The Batman, military surplus and C.P. Company comparisons. Earlier, Christopher Nolan's Batman trilogy leads into Glen Powell and Robert Pattinson's GQ fashion editorials, Diesel, Balenciaga and why a great actor willing to get weird can sell a look better than a safe shoot.
Are vintage cowboy boots worth the money?
M.L. Leddy's and Lucchese lead a debate about Western boot craftsmanship, exotic leathers, resale prices, heel wear and the elusive combination of price, style and fit. Sol talks about his Lost Control boots, while Michael gets into repairing his Balenciaga Santiago boots. Beautiful boots are one thing. Beautiful boots that fit and aren't worn through are another.
What is the 2016 fashion revival getting wrong?
Sol and Michael argue that people keep confusing 2016 style with the earlier 2010s "swag era." They revisit Haider Ackermann velvet bomber jackets, Vetements Metal logo hoodies, Yeezy 750s and 350s, Rick Owens DRKSHDW fishtail parkas, skinny jeans, drop-crotch trousers and the outfits that once defined Grailed wish lists. Which archive pieces deserve another run, and which memories are getting the decade wrong?
Further, the boys get into Portugal, Lisbon natural wine, New York street style, Crocs cowboy boots, Balenciaga denim versus Levi's 501s, hemming jeans at Self Edge, a vintage 1999 Slipknot T-shirt, the relationship "swag gap," niche fragrance samples, Future Diary, Fogland, Hunter x Hunter and songs of the week from Timbaland and Justin Timberlake and The Black Dahlia Murder. The tangents are part of the outfit.
This is integrated fashion: our season's exploration of brands expanding beyond clothes into culture and lifestyle, while people bring their hobbies, communities and interests into what they wear. In this episode, knitting, camping, cinema, music and vintage collecting all become ways of thinking about personal style.
Glad to be back in your ears (no diddy).
Lots of love,
Sol and Michael.
This season is sponsored by Scent Split.
Follow Pair of Kings on Instagram: @pairofkingspod
Episode Tags: Mary Maxim sweaters, vintage knitwear, gorpcore, America 250, American fashion, heritage menswear, vintage L.L.Bean, M.L. Leddy's boots, movie style inspiration, 2016 fashion revival, archive fashion, integrated fashion, men's fashion podcast
Sol Thompson and Michael Smith explore the world and subcultures of fashion, interviewing creators, personalities, and industry insiders to highlight the new vanguard of the fashion world. Subscribe for weekly uploads of the podcast, and don’t forgot to follow us on our social channels for additional content, and join our discord to access what we’ve dubbed “the happiest place in fashion”.
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