Stephen Pannell: The godfather of modern grenache on terroir, tannin and Australian wine

Stephen Pannell is one of Australia’s most influential winemakers and a driving force behind the rise of modern McLaren Vale grenache.

In this episode of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, Steve shares how a childhood spent working in vineyards in Margaret River eventually led him to winemaking, despite his best efforts to avoid the family profession. From producing more than 200 million bottles of red wine at Hardys to rediscovering his creativity in Barolo, Steve explains how pinot noir and nebbiolo shaped his unique approach to grenache.

The conversation explores what makes McLaren Vale grenache so expressive, the importance of tannin, picking decisions and old-vine vineyards, and why great wine should reflect the land rather than the hand of the winemaker. Steve also takes us inside his Little Branch vineyard in Blewitt Springs, where century-old grenache vines produce his distinctly different Sunrise and Sunset wines.

Steve also discusses the restoration of his Koomilya vineyard, the inspiration behind his Halliday award-winning Mataro Rosé, and his mission to preserve the future of warm-climate Australian shiraz. He also makes a passionate case for taking rosé, sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio and merlot seriously, while encouraging wine drinkers to trust their own tastes.

As the Australian wine industry faces one of its most challenging periods, Steve reflects on why the country has never made better wine and considers the Mediterranean and Italian varieties that could define its future.

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In this episode:

• How Steve Pannell found his way into winemaking

• The evolution of modern Australian grenache

• What pinot noir and nebbiolo taught Steve about grenache

• Why tannin is essential to the identity of red wine

• The influence of soil, ironstone and the ocean in McLaren Vale

• What makes Blewitt Springs such a distinctive grenache region

• The story behind the century-old Little Branch vineyard

• How Sunrise and Sunset grenache express two parts of the same site

• Restoring biodiversity at the Koomilya vineyard

• Why premium fruit is essential to serious rosé

• Protecting the future of warm-climate Australian shiraz

• Mediterranean grape varieties suited to Australia’s changing climate

• Why wine drinkers should never feel intimidated by personal taste

• Steve’s hopes for the future of Australian wine