Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail for eight weeks. Today is Episode 8, Denali, with special guest Dahn Hahn, who has summited it 38 times. #7summits
Alaska's Denali is the highest peak in North America at 20,310 feet (6,190 meters). It requires the strongest fitness level, Everest's altitude notwithstanding, of the Seven Summits to climb. Yet it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on the planet. It's not a climb to be underestimated, but a rewarding experience if you can climb it.
Overview
Denali is located in central Alaska, 300 miles South of the Arctic Circle and 200 miles East of the Bearing Sea. Denali is the native American name for the mountain, but in 1896, Prospector William Dickey renamed the peak Mt. McKinley for Presidential nominee William McKinley of Ohio. Denali National Park and Preserve was established as Mount McKinley National Park on February 26, 1917. The surrounding area was named Denali National Park by the National Park Service in 1980. In 2015, the mountain's name was officially renamed Denali.
The 20,310-foot south summit was first attempted in 1903, and the first summit was in 1913 by Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper, Harry Karstens, and Robert Tatum. Harper was a Native Alaskan.
Like many of the Seven Summits, Denali has gained in popularity, with well over 1,000 people attempting each year. The attempts peaked in 2005 at 1,340, and 2013 had the most summits with 775. 2023 was a difficult weather year with only a 30% summit rate. Through 2023, 49,818 climbers have attempted Denali, with 25,835 summiting, a 52% success rate.
Deaths occur almost yearly due to frostbite, weather, and poor preparedness. Nearly 100 have died, including 11 in 1992.
Dave Hahn Interview
I've known Dave for years, having run into him on Denali and Everest several times.
Dave is a world-class mountain guide. He has been a guide for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI) for nearly 40 years. His summits are impressive: 300+ on Rainier, 40 on Vinson, 38 summits of Denali out of 49 attempts, Cho Oyu and Aconcagua, plus others. He also loves to guide the Shackleton Crossing on South Georgia Island. Also, Dave had more Everest summits at 15 than any foreigner until Kenton Cool passed him with 18.
He is an accomplished climber and an impressive writer who provides some of the most insightful dispatches from any climb. I was lucky to catch him at home in Taos, where he has been a professional ski patroller at Taos Ski Valley since 1985.
I wanted to do a deep dive into climbing Denali and mine his experience for the nuances of climbing the "Great One."
Episodes will drop each week:
September 15: Introduction
September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m
September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m
October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m
October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m
October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m
October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m
November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m
November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m
November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m
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